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the laugardalslaug hot pots |
stepping out onto the massive pool deck in 54ºF air was refreshing in every sense of the word. the awkward part was over with - time for fun! and quickly: being damp in that cold, breezy air made getting into the water top priority.
there were two enormous pools -- one, an olympic-sized lap pool with six (maybe eight? i'm not sure) lanes, and the other a huge, sprawling soak-ish pool that was about four-feet deep and filled with people. next to the lap pool were four "hot pots," which are essentially hot tubs, arranged in order of ascending temperature. i think the "coldest" one was 38ºC (100ºF) and the hottest was a whopping 44ºC (111ºF). even though it doesn't sound like much of a difference, believe me: IT IS. the 44ºC pot was essentially a vat of human soup. there were also a few larger hot-pot-esque wading pools scattered around and packed with people, a sauna and a colourful waterslide.
around the perimeter of the pools, every available space on which one might hang one's towel was filled with… towels. some knotted, some wrapped in creative ways, all done to distinguish one person's white rental towel from those of dozens and dozens of strangers. when my pals and i reconvened upon exiting the change rooms, we quickly scanned the pools for any sign of ericanddan. when we located them -- gathered in a cluster with t-po and some of the other wedding guests in the soaking pool -- we promptly hung our towels amid the masses and hurried into the water.
and, OMG, that water. heavenly. it was like stepping into a vast bath. so fabulously warm and welcoming and relaxing. i instantly understood why icelanders make this a part of their daily routines. we made our way to the group, exchanged hugs and then just lounged in the water. there were kids and families playing with assorted floaties, balls and water toys, and there was the constant sploosh of one person after another being spit out of the bottom of the waterslide. it was glorious!
i'd wanted to do a post-wedding debrief with eric, so we slowly bobbed away from everyone else, pulled over a foam horse floatie and had an hour-long "foam of silence" conversation, wherein we fully dished about and dissected everything that had happened the night before. occasionally, as we chatted, i remarked at where we were in a "can you BELIEVE this?! we're HERE!" way. because, there we were. in iceland. in a thermal pool. a day after his wedding. a year of planning and prep and (for me) anxiety and wondering, and it was all happening. more importantly, it was all so much more amazing than i ever could have imagined.
various members of our party enthusiastically took to the waterslide. when t-po described the experience as "intense," i suspected it might not be for me. that's the kind of ambiguous adjective that could mean "intensely fun" or "intensely terrifying," so i erred on the side of caution. and i'm glad i did -- though all agreed it was a thrilling ride, my friend linda wound up in a mid-slide collision in the pitch-dark portion of the enclosed slide when ericanddan's UK pal, who'd gone down first, and stopped or slowed down enough that linda wound up crashing into her. everyone was fine, and the story has since become part of our collective vacation lore, but i didn't want to chance it. FYI, the slide works on a red light/green light system (to let the person at the top know when it's safe to hop in and head down) that, evidently, needs a little tweaking.
after we'd waded and lounged and talked and relaxed in the soaking pool for a long while, we decided to give the hot pots a try. the 38ºC pot was full, so we went to the next pot up (40ºC), which was crowded but still had enough room for us four. it was, in a word, hot… like the best kind of hot tub. we all stepped in and remarked, as we sat down on the cement ledge around the interior, how UH-MAY-ZING it felt. strong jets pounding our backs, hot water bubbling all around us. everyone leaned his or head back and just absorbed the comforting heat (which, obviously, was made all the more comforting after our chilly walk along the deck from the pool).
and then, almost simultaneously, we all hit the tipping point when you go from being blissed out in the hot water to feeling kind of queasy and ill about it all as your core temperature rises. we'd be in there for, i dunno, maybe 10 or 15 minutes when we consulted with each other and agreed it was time to get out. when we did, i immediately understood how it was that so many of the pool visitors seemed to be quite comfortable wandering around, wet, in the cold air -- clearly, they were cooling down after a stint in one of the four cauldrons. i was quite happy to have the wind wrap itself around my steaming body as we walked slowly back to the soaking pool.
we wound up staying and playing in the water for a while longer. eric and i discovered the "hot hole," from which the hot water was being pumped out to the masses, so we hung out there and continued comparing notes. eventually, though, we all realized it was probably time to head out -- our hands and feet were beyond prune-y, and time was marching on. we made plans to meet up downtown for the evening's culture night festivities, then said our goodbyes.
i must say, the post-swim shower process was far less daunting than the pre-swim shtick. for starters, no one seems to care whether you shower when you
exit the pool, just so long as you dry off completely before entering the changing area. your feet must be dry, but your body doesn't have to be clean. and, as much as i
loved those communal showers, i decided i'd shower properly and wash my hair when i got back to my studio, so i dried off and headed back to my locker.
now, changing out of one's suit and back into clothes is just as slow and challenging a process as it had been in the reverse order. and, this time, i had the added treat of two girls -- who looked like they were perhaps 10 or 11 years old -- standing at the mirror at the end of the aisle where my locker was located. so, like, five feet away from me. they were just kind of hanging out and goofing around (and were fully dressed), presumably waiting for their mom(s) to finish changing. and i wondered if they were going to stand there the entire time i was changing.
yup!
i tried to turn my back to them because, you know, this was really weird and i didn't feel like flashing two preteens… but then they actually moved and i was once again facing them. i kind of wanted to ask them if there wasn't somewhere else they could be so that i could have some modicum of privacy while stripping down, but i didn't. and, thankfully, after a minute or so, they moved along. i finished getting dressed, wrapped my wet suit in a ziploc bag and packed it in my knapsack and then headed back outside to gather my shoes.
farther along the hall outside the change areas, there was a long table with little stations along it, each one with a small standing mirror and a hand-held hair dryer. there were a few women drying their lids. i thought about trying to dry my hair before the long walk back to the studio but reasoned that i'd probably be just fine in the icelandic air given that i'd just spent more than two hours outside in it while soaking wet. so, i tied it up, put my hiking boots back on and we made our way back into town.
i hopped into my hot shower as soon as i got back, then had a hearty snack because, shortly, i'd be heading back out for a much-anticipated evening of culture nighting…